Ear piercing has been practiced for thousands of years, and the method of piercing varies culturally and geographically. In the 1800s, piercing was performed with simple, handmade tools and usually performed by some family member (non-professional). This process was premature and less sanitary at that time. This article covers how people in the 1800s did piercing, the styles of jewelry, and the significance of ear piercing during this time. Today, piercing is also a trend; people wear jewelry in their ears along with a bob haircut.
Cultural and Historical Significance of Ear Piercing in the 1800s.
In ancient times, piercing was performed due to spiritual, symbolic, and cultural means. Ear piercing was common among women in the 1800s. By the 1800s, European and American women pierced their ears as a fashion statement. Ear piercing indicates femininity, social status, and economic status. Jewelry worn by wealthy women was made of gold, silver, and expensive stones, while poor women wore hoops and studs. Ear piercing was also seen as a rite of passage and considered an entry into adulthood.
The method used for piercing the ears in the 1800s.
In the 19th century, the piercing process was simple, unhygienic, and too painful. Piercing standards and equipment were not developed during that time; furthermore, the concept of antiseptic or disinfectant was limited. Infections were common at that time. Homemade, sharp, and unsterilized tools like needles, pins, or small knives were used by some family members to pierce the ear. The most common tool used in the 19th century was sewing needles or darning needles.
Stepwise procedure
- Heat the needle to clean it.
- Anesthesia was unavailable then, so an ice-cold compress was applied to the ear to numb it. Sometimes, ice-cold compresses were not available, so people had to face the pain.
- A cork or potato was put behind the earlobe to support the piercing.
- Piercing in the earlobe was created with a single swift motion of the needle.
- Wash the pierced area with salt water or alcohol to clean it.
- A straw or thread was threaded through the hole. A hoop or stud was also used in place of thread.
Note: Wearing something in the piercing was necessary; otherwise, the opening would close again during the healing process.
After piercing, the ear takes some weeks to heal, and sometimes the wound becomes infected. Some remedies were applied, such as ear washing with alcohol or herbal poultices, but sometimes the infection became severe. That led to pus in the ear.
Earrings used in the 1800s.
Different styles of jewelry were used in pierced ears. Women wear earrings as an economic status. The most common earrings in the 19th century were hoop earrings and stud earrings. Hoop earrings were simple and practically suitable for the opening of piercings. They were made of different materials, such as gold, silver, brass, or some less expensive metals. Due to the wide range of availability and being practically good to wear, these were too popular in rural areas. The material of the hoops declared the economic status of women as gold or silver hoops, which were only afforded by the elite class. At the same time, lower-class people wore brass or inferior metals. Stud earrings were made up of silver or gold and were more popular among the wealthiest people. These stud earrings were featured with diamonds and pearls.
Stories of piercing practices among different Indigenous nations:
Below are stories and accounts of piercing practices from different Indigenous nations during this era:
1. Lakota (Sioux) – Sun Dance and Sacrificial Piercing
During the annual Sun Dance ceremony, Lakota men underwent chest piercings as a rite of spiritual renewal and sacrifice. Skewers made of bone or wood were inserted into the skin of the chest or back, tethered to a sacred tree by ropes. Dancers pulled against the tethers until the flesh tore free, symbolizing endurance, prayer, and communion with the divine.
Cultural Context:
This act was seen as a offering to Wakan Tanka (the Great Spirit) for healing, guidance, or gratitude. European settlers often misinterpreted it as “savage,” but it was a profound act of devotion.
2. Nez Perce – Nose Piercing and Status
The Nez Perce (Nimiipuu) of the Pacific Northwest practiced septum piercing, often adorning it with shells, bone, or later, traded metal jewelry. Piercings were earned through acts of bravery or leadership.
Cultural Context:
A pierced septum signaled maturity and valor. Stories tell of warriors receiving their first nose ornament after successful hunts or battles, marking their transition into respected providers.
3. Cheyenne – Ear Piercing and Warrior Identity
Cheyenne men and women pierced their ears, stretching the lobes with bone plugs or quills. Warriors often added more piercings to commemorate battle achievements. A legend tells of a young warrior who received his first ear piercing after surviving a raid, symbolizing his readiness to protect his people.
Cultural Context:
Ear ornaments were believed to enhance hearing—a vital skill for hunters and scouts.
4. Haida and Tlingit – Labrets and Social Rank
Among Pacific Northwest tribes like the Haida and Tlingit, lip labrets (lower-lip piercings) were worn by high-status women. Labrets made of walrus ivory, abalone, or copper were inserted during puberty rites.
Cultural Context:
Larger labrets indicated greater wealth and social standing. European traders noted that removing a labret was a sign of mourning.
5. Navajo (Diné) – Ear Piercing for Protection
Navajo children traditionally received ear piercings in early childhood, often with turquoise or silver to invoke protection from evil spirits. A story recounts a grandmother blessing her granddaughter’s new piercings with corn pollen, saying, “May you hear the wisdom of the ancestors.”
Cultural Context:
Turquoise was believed to connect the wearer to the sky and healing forces.
6. Apache – Facial Piercing and Coming-of-Age
Apache boys underwent facial piercings (cheeks or chin) as part of their coming-of-age rituals, often paired with endurance tests like running and fasting. A pierced face marked readiness for responsibility.
Cultural Context:
Piercings were thought to channel courage from ancestral spirits.
Colonial Impact and Suppression
By the late 1800s, U.S. government policies and missionary efforts sought to suppress Indigenous traditions, including piercing. Many tribes were forced to abandon these practices or adapt them in secret. However, some communities preserved their rituals orally or through hidden ceremonies.
Conclusion.
Today’s piercing procedure is much safer than those performed in the 19th century. Properly sterilized equipment is used to decrease the risk of infection. Anesthesia was not available in the 19th century, so piercing was a painful procedure at that time. Studs with diamonds and pearls were popular among the elite class, while the lower economic class wore hoops of brass or some less expensive metal. So, hoops were more popular among the poor people. Piercings often served as conduits for prayer, sacrifice, or communion with ancestors. Adornments marked life stages, achievements, or social roles. Despite colonization, many tribes revived piercing traditions in the 20th–21st centuries as acts of cultural reclamation.
